Elie Saab is best known for his flamboyant red carpet gowns and wedding dresses, but his spring/summer 2015 collection, showcased at Haute Couture Week in Paris, features many gorgeous cocktail-length frocks adorned with feathers and crystals that are just as glamorous as his floor-length styles. The colour palette varies from whites and ivories to mint, blush pink, deep blue and black, while oversized tulip blossoms and colourful butterflies are the key motifs. Saab’s signature crystals, sequins and shiny beads were used in combination with fluttery ostrich feathers and delicate embroidery, while the fabrics he used were mainly lightweight silks and tulle.
Elie Saab drew his inspiration from the sixties in Beirut where he grew up surrounded with glamour. The catalogue for the show was designed like a vintage travel brochure as he wanted to take his audience to a journey into a bygone era. The booklet includes portraits of his parents when they were young and on one of the images his mother wears a beautiful floral dress which influenced the entire range. “With every new collection I conceived, the striking image of my mother in this tulip-print silk dress reappeared endlessly,” he says. This is the reason why some of the dresses feature colourful floral prints, even though this is an element he rarely uses for his evening gowns. He added couture quality to the printed dresses by using hand-sewn floral appliqués which seem incredibly sophisticated and natural, creating the illusion that it is real flowers and butterflies that are attached to the fabric.
Vintage-inspired gowns feature modern details like side pockets, thin belts and outrageously plunging necklines, and the collection even includes some unexpected silhouettes such as a beaded jumpsuit and embellished tulle robes. We loved the unexpected combination of flat satin sandals and glamorous dresses, but also feathered shoulder bags paired with floor-length gowns. Hair and make-up perfectly matched the mood of the collection with romantic loose waves gently encircling the face and sixties-style smoky eyes enhancing the drama of the opulent evening dresses.
The wedding dress that closed the show was definitely one of our favourite looks, even though it wasn’t the classical white gown. Elie Saab’s couture bride wore a pastel-coloured ball gown with a daring plunge and a gorgeous floral print in an array of soft hues adorned with tiny silver crystals. We think this is the perfect wedding day look for a bride who wants a glamorous ball gown that is a little bit different.
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